Store: Small, but reassuring in its salt-in-the-walls aesthetic. Prominent display of bagels and spreads. Strong pastry selection with drink essentials. Fast, professional service. A well-worn experience. 4.25

Bagel: Medium sized but puffy. One-sided toppings with light density. Standard garlic, poppy and sesame plus salt and the ever-elusive caraway seed. No bagel hole. Fresh but not hot. Nice irregular shape, browned shell. A good chew. 4.25

Cream Cheese: While ripeness is typically a negative for cream cheese, this spread manages to communicate dairy in a strong, tangy way. Excellent scallion play in flavor and texture. Good coverage and amount. 4.25