Store: Large customer ordering space. A good selection of drinks, bagels and spreads well displayed. Cupboard a little bare in the pastry department. Fast, efficient staff. All you would expect to be at a bagel store is present. Character points for being tucked into and under a building, giving a clandestine feel. 4

Bagel: Medium-sized bagel. Highly dense toppings on both sides. A delightfully soft chew, and miraculously warmly baked at such a late hour. Lack of salt in the toppings mixture or on the shell flavor a crucial misstep. 4.25

Cream Cheese: Generously applied, finely whipped and fresh. Served too cold, beyond the power of the warm bagel. Scallions make a modest showing. 4