Store: A store with cornmeal under its nails. Classically gritty and irregular; "Edge of Seventeen" plays on the radio, flashing LED lights snake around the ceiling edge. Moderated drink selection, very limited pastry selection. Pleasant, quick staff. Overall, a short supply of amenities. 3.5

Bagel: A large bagel with two-sided toppings at moderate density overall. A very interesting specimen; I can't recall eating a similar bagel before. No hallmarks of traditional freshness (temperature, softness, irregular shell) yet undoubtedly made recently. A tough chew in a pleasant way, yet a chew that seems like it should be a detriment. Cleaving and chunkier, like an appetizing bagel or Montreal style, yet not hamstrung by the need for lox to elevate the experience. While almost all instances of these reviews manage to separate the play between bagel and cream cheese, it's undeniable that the two are elevating each other. 4.25

Cream Cheese: Served cold, yet still smooth and fluid in consistency. Even coverage and generous amount. Not a huge quantity of scallion but what's there is both visually appealing and apparent in texture. Something about both the amount and the chill of spread completes the bite cycle of the bagel. A really surprising experience. 4.25