Store: Classic aesthetics in every sense of the word. A very small store, with the customer area not much bigger than a hotel elevator. The rich smell of baking bagels hits on entry. A wide selection of spreads and salads sit in functional metal trays. Moderate drink and pastry selection, as much a consequence of space limitation as anything else. The dance remix of Alice DJ's "Better Off Alone" plays on the radio, which is both out of place and perfectly reasonable. Offers many of the options an provided by an Appetizing but much more in the character of a bagel-first establishment. 4.25

Bagel: Extra large bagel with a large central hole, served fresh but not hot. Two-sided toppings at thorough density and standard everything composition. A deemphasis on salt presence that comes off as intentional rather than incomplete. A fairly doughy, easy chew with no shell crackle. 4.25

Cream Cheese: Served deli case cool. Loads of spread evenly applied. A dairy forward cream cheese in a way that's very unusual. Rather than tangy or ripe, it hits as a much more milky and creamy experience. The scallions aren't numerous but when they do come around they're huge and flavorful with a potent, oniony kick. 4.5