Store: Greeted by the wonderful smell of baked bagels. A classic store setup in all aesthetic respects: black and white vinyl flooring, Boars Head Signage, yellowed ceiling tiles and Toto's "Hold The Line" playing on Two for Tuesday Classic Rock radio. Moderate drink selection, utilitarian spread display, small but fresh pastry selection. A little slower than I'd expect on the service but a true bagel pro crew. One of the senior staff offered a free muffin to a mother and her child. 4.25

Bagel: An extra large bagel with a strong chew component. Not hot but fresh. Wonderfully browned shell with nice irregularities to the shape. High topping density on both sides; great salt dispersal. 4.25

Cream Cheese: Served room temperature. Generous amount applied, slightly uneven coverage. One of the few spreads encountered in NYC that ventures into a french onion sensibility. Pleasantly ripe with a smooth texture all the way through. The scallions chime in with a vegetal profile; their fine chop is overruled in the texture conversation. 4.25