Store: A fairly large store, recently reopened for small inside dining. Everything you could want amenity-wise in a bagel establishment: great spread selection, ample pastry options and big belly lox on display. Service-wise, it's a little too production oriented (order here, stand here, pay here) relative to the actual displayed efficiency. Also, the high polish experience comes at the cost of any notion of character. But all this is quibbling. We're talking a no-nonsense, high standard bagel experience in the middle of Midtown. 4.25

Bagel: Soft, slightly warm. A big boy. One-sided toppings make it feel like a plain bagel in how much the dough comes through. Lighter topping density than other Ess-A-Bagel locations previously reviewed. A moderate amount as is. Salt visibly present at a good ratio but not much play in the bite. Good, but not approaching greatness. 4

Cream Cheese: Served deli case cool. A good quantity with even covering but slightly loose in application. Fresh, clean flavor with smooth texture. Scallion doesn't make much of a play. Very fine chop. Paired with the previous section's review, the overall impression is that I'm eating a plain bagel with plain cream cheese. 4