Store: A classic zero frills set-up. Taped over old signage, deli cases arranged as barricades and an exposed, unconsidered kitchen area. An interesting collection of pastry offerings balances out the small drink selection. 'Careless Whisper' plays on the radio. Polite, attentive staff. Spread selection lacking. The store rides its old charm as far as it can, but no farther. 3.75

Bagel: Medium-sized. Two sided toppings - standard - very light bottom density and moderate top density. Poor salt crystal ratio, with stray examples here and there. They make no real impression on the flavor. Not fresh, but not overly tough. This can be accounted for by the time of day, but the best bagel stores overcome this easily. 3.25

Cream Cheese: Served cool from the deli case. Even application but slightly lacking in quantity. Exists in the uncommon - but not unique - variety of spreads that match a sour cream and onion profile. Scallion is not present in texture, but in color. More an idea of scallion and a tangy representation. That said, it does not express as an overcheese. Almost a novelty spread. 3.5